Friday 24 June 2011

Elterwater, Great Langdale, Blea Tarn, Little Langdale, Elterwater

Approx 10 miles.

Here’s a nice afternoon / late afternoon drive that takes in both Langdale valleys linked by a mini-pass with the opportunity to get out and explore the shore of Blea Tarn.


The car park at Elterwater (post code LA22 9HP) is an ideal start point.

Keeping the Britannia Inn on your left, take the left hand road away from the village green in front of the pub. At the end of the road, turn left towards Chapel Stile.

Wainwright’s Inn appears on your left as you come into the village.


Lingmoor Fell will be on your left hand side; indeed, this drive basically uses the fell as a giant roundabout! You may catch glimpses of the slate quarry works – one still in use – high up on the hill side.


As you make your way further along this road, the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and Stickle Barn Tavern are on your right, at the foot of the steep path that leads alongside Stickle Ghyll and up to Stickle Tarn and the Langdale Pikes.

The Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel is a little further along the road on the right then very shortly after, there is a sharp left hand corner. The road starts to narrow here on the approach to Wall End farm. As you squeeze through the narrow gap and swing to the left, the road ahead climbs steeply up the hill-side, initially alongside Redacre Gill which is to your left.

As the incline starts to reduce there is a sharp right bend as the road starts to level out and you head towards Blea Tarn House and the tarn itself. The road then crosses a cattle grid and if you can find a place to park, there are some great views across the tarn, back towards the Langdale Pikes and along the Mickledon and Oxendale vallies.


The slopes of Lingmoor Fell to your left come down to meet the road and Blea Tarn House (what a place to live!) is on your left.

Shortly after, there is a National Trust car park to your left. You can pause here, walk across the road and enjoy the tarn at close quarters. A path leads the way around the edge of the tarn, through a small area of woodland and out onto the open fell. The path eventually joins the road close to the cattle grid you will have just driven. (Allow around 45 – 60 minutes if you choose to walk from your car to this point and back.)


Leaving the car park, join the road again by turning left. From this point, the road undulates and winds its way towards Little Langdale. The downward gradient is steep but provides some fantastic views of Crinkle Crags and Wrynose Fell to your left, and Great Intake and Holme Fell in front of you. All the time, you have Lingmoor Fell from company to your left.

On reaching the bottom of the steep hill, turn right after going over another cattle grid. (The right turn here takes you up to the Wrynose Pass.)

You are now on the road to Little Langdale and while the steepness of the climb to and descent from Blea Tarn is behind you, this stretch is very narrow with some tight turns.

Catching sight of Little Langdale Tarn to your right, you will soon pass the Three Shires Inn on your left and the few dwellings that make up the village(?) of Little Langdale.


Soon, the road reaches a “T” junction; turn left towards Elterwater. The road follows the boundary of Fletcher’s Wood  then passes the Eltermere Hotel on your right before entering Elterwater village. The road turns sharply right and crosses the Great Langdale Beck to bring you back to your start point, opposite the Britannia Inn.


Tuesday 21 June 2011

Ambleside, Keswick, Whinlatter Pass, Cockermouth, Mockerin, Loweswater, Buttermere, Crummock Water, Honister Pass, Derwent Water, Keswick, Thirlmere, Ambleside.

Approx 50 miles.

Like many drives, this one can take as long or as little as you like, within reason. But it is probably best enjoyed over a whole day as it takes in three wonderful Lakeland towns (including the start / end point), six lakes and two passes! I also found a fantastic hotel and bar; the Kirstile Inn at Loweswater.


So the route in a little more detail.

From Ambleside, take the A591 towards Keswick.

This road takes you passes the outskirts of Grasmere. Just before reaching the Grasmere, there are some lovely views across Rydal Water and Grasmere (the lake) to your left; both nestling beneath the done of Loughrigg. You will then make your way up a long hill as the Helvellyn range comes into view on your right and Thirlmere on your left.

Look for the A5271 road into Keswick. I think it is always more fun to drive through the towns and villages rather than hunting out the local by-pass; and while Keswick can be very busy, something may take your eye and you’ll want to find somewhere to park and take a look at the charms the town as to offer.

However, whether you stop or not, follow the road signs for Cockermouth / A66. You will not be on the A66 for long. Look for Braithwaite and the Whinlatter Pass on your left and take this road.

The Whinlatter Pass is not like some other passes in the Lake District. It is a predominantly wide road that weaves over modest hills but through a rising forest with tempting glimpses of the surrounding fells.

Once over the pass, pass by Lorton and head to Cockermouth.

Cockermouth is another Lakeland village you might choose to explore. Properties in the centre of the village were badly damaged in the November 2009 floods.

On leaving Cockermouth, take the A5086 towards Ergemont in the South West of the Lake District. Just a couple of miles along this road, turn left towards Mockerin, but after passing the turning for Pardshaw.


Having weaved through the delightful village of Mockerin, head for Loweswater, which will appear through the trees on your right. About a kilometre after the end of the lake, look out for a small turning on the right as the road forks. This road will take you to the Kirstile Inn.




The position of this delightful inn, is just superb with a marvellous for of the fells from the inside seating at the back of the bar and the garden outside. The Food and beer are excellent too!

You can either re-trace your steps back to the Loweswater road and turn right or turn right out of the car par then turn left by the church; either way you need to head towards Low Lorton and the B5289.

Turn right onto the B5289 and make your way towards Crummock Water and Buttermere. There are plenty of opportunities to stop and take pictures here as the road hugs the eastern shoreline of both picture-perfect lakes.



Once beyond the southern tip of Buttermere, the ascent to Honister Pass starts. Again there are lots of places to stop and record the views for your album – digital or otherwise - as the road winds its way between the high fells.



At the top of the pass is the Honnister Slate Mine with a plethora or attractions and things to do as well as a café.

The road then winds down the other side towards Seatoller and Derwent Water. Soon, the river you have been driving alongside empties into the lake which will be with you on your left hand side as you journey back towards Keswick. As you approach the town, the road comes away from the lake. As you reach the A5271 in the centre of the town, look for and take the A591 towards Windermere and Ambleside. (If you do take a wrong turn and end up heading towards the A66, don’t worry, you’ll soon be able to turn back in towards Keswick and pick up the A591 from the other side of town.)

The A591 then takes you back towards Ambleside with wonderful views of the Helvellyn range to your left, Thirlmere to the right and having passed the turnings for Grasmere village, Grasmere lake and Rydal Water on the right.